About

Bethann Hardison, activist, model and founder of the modeling and management agency that bears her name, has long been a groundbreaker in the world of fashion. She has helped guide the careers of some of the most prominent models of color in recent times and through her decades of advocacy work has challenged and helped change common notions of beauty by consistently championing diversity in the fashion industry.

 

 

The Early Years

Bethann Hardison, Age 7, Brooklyn, NYC

Bethann Hardison, Age 7, Brooklyn, NYC

Born and raised in New York, Bethann grew up in pre-gentrified Bedford-Stuyvestant splitting time between her mother and grandmother who were domestics and her father who was a respected Muslim leader and supervisor at the local housing authority and a respected Muslim leader who worked alongside Elijah Muhammad and Malcolm X. After graduating from George W. Wingate High School where she became the first African-American cheerleader, she attended the New York University Art School and the Fashion Institute of Technology.

 

 

The Model

Bethann Hardison, Essence Magazine, 1974

Bethann Hardison, Essence Magazine, 1974

Bethann’s career in fashion began in the 60s at Cabot a custom button factory in New York's Garment District. From there, she went on to work for Ruth Manchester Ltd. a junior dress company. Bethann would go on to become the first Black salesperson in a showroom. One day while delivering samples for an upcoming fashion show to Bernie Ozer, the head of the junior dress department for Federated Stores, she told him, "If you really want a great show, you'll have me in it." Bernie would go on to book Bethann for the show marking the beginning of her modeling career. Shortly thereafter, in 1967, she was discovered by designer Willi Smith and became his fitting model and muse. This led to runway and print work for other designers such as Anne Klein, Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein, Perry Ellis, Issey Miyake, Ungaro, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, and Claude Montana. Along with Beverly Johnson, Iman and Pat Cleveland, Bethann broke new ground for models of color in the industry as one of a handful of Black models in the early 1970s favored by top European and New York designers, appearing in fashion spreads for Allure, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar. In 1973, she became one of the first Black models to walk a European runway when she was cast in the historic Battle of Versailles. Conceived by famed fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert and Gerald Van der Kemp, the event began as a fundraiser for the restoration of the Palace of Versailles. The competition that emerged between five American designers and France’s lions of haute couture catapulted American designers and models of color onto the world stage. It was Hardison, one of the eleven models of color, and her contemporaries whose uninhibited, energetic performance helped the U.S. designers steal the show. At the end of the runway, Bethann threw the train of her dress to the ground, stood still and defiantly stared into the audience. The crowd filled with celebrities and the social elite went wild, cheering, stomping and tossing their programs into the air signaling the Americans' victory over the French. 

During her successful stint as a model Bethann also worked as a design assistant to Stephen Burrows who was one of the American designers she walked for in The Battle of Versailles. She would eventually go on to run his studio. Throughout the mid to late 70s, Bethann continued her transition from model to businesswoman as a freelance creative director and producer for Kansai Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, and Valentino Couture. 

 

 

The AGENT

Bethann @ Bethann Management, N. Moore St., NYC, 1984

Bethann @ Bethann Management, N. Moore St., NYC, 1984

In 1980 Bethann joined the newly formed Click Models where she helped revolutionized the modeling industry. During her tenure at Click she represented a teenage Whitney Houston, Talisa Soto, Isabella Rossellini, Tahnee Welch, Elle Macpherson, and Grace Jones. From the beginning, Click redefined the image of the model by providing an alternative to the Nordic blonde-haired, blue-eyed standard of beauty that had dominated fashion, popularized by legacy agencies such as Ford and Wilhemina. Click became known for unconventional beauties representing female models with "odd" or "exotic" looks. Their male models were the rugged, athletic all-American jock on the one hand and on the other they introduced a new sensuous, ambiguous masculinity represented by models such as Attila von Somogyi - both of which represented a major departure from the formal gentleman that dominated the industry for decades prior. This shift, which had started in 1978, gained momentum with the founding of Click elevating male models from mere props to front and center for the first time. Collectively on the men's and women's front, this new look which Bethann was instrumental in developing, became the defining image of the iconography for Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Perry Ellis, the agency's top clients. 

In 1984, Bethann left Click and formed her own namesake agency Bethann Management where she continued challenging prevailing notions of beauty with specific focus on diversifying the fashion industry. Her company opened its doors with 16 models. Nearly 50% were African-Americans. The agency eventually grew to represent 35 models, including white, Black, Latin, and Asian men and women. Veronica Webb, one of Bethann's early discoveries, continued to break barriers for models of colors with clients such as Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Calvin Klein, Kenzo, Issey Miyake, Vogue Italia, Elle, and Marie Claire. Veronica would go on to become the first African-American to land a major cosmetics contract. Bethann again made fashion history by signing Tyson Beckford, who would quickly become the most famous male model in history, to an exclusive contract with designer Ralph Lauren. It was the first contract of its kind ever to be given to a Black male model. Bethann Management's roster also included Bethann's son Kadeem Hardison who starred in the iconic 90s sitcom "A Different World," Bonnie Berman, Josie Borain, Roshumba, Kimora Lee Simons, singer Brandy, T-Boz from TLC, and Treach from Naughty by Nature.

 

 

The Activist

Black Girls Coalition Press Conference, NYC, 1992

Black Girls Coalition Press Conference, NYC, 1992

In 1988 Bethann founded the Black Girls Coalition, which initially started to celebrate the Black models who were working in such abundance at that time and allow those models to give back to the community. However, just three years after it's inception, models of color began disappearing en masse from fashion ads and runways. With over 20 members, including Iman, Naomi Campbell, Veronica Webb, Karen Alexander, Roshumba, Beverly Peele, Cynthia Bailey, Gail O'Neill, Peggy Dillard, Kerstie Bowser, and Tyra Banks, the group quickly evolved into a watchdog group providing advocacy and support to African-American models and raising awareness for issues ranging from homelessness to racism in advertising. In 1991, after analyzing over 30,000 ads and catalogue images, The City of New York's Department of Consumer Affairs released a report that found a paltry 3.4 percent of all consumer magazine advertisements depicted African­-Americans despite the fact that at the time African-Americans comprised 11.3 percent of the readership of all consumer magazines and 12.5 percent of the U.S. population. Furthermore, African-Americans, when featured, were mostly depicted as stereotypes instead of consumers. As a result, in 1992 Bethann and the Black Girl's Coalition organized a press conference to address the gross underrepresentation of African-Americans in fashion ad­vertising, runway shows, and the editorial pages of consumer maga­zines.

Vogue Italia’s Black Issue, 2008

Vogue Italia’s Black Issue, 2008

In 1996, Hardison turned her attention towards television where she co-executive produced television sitcoms “Between Brothers” and “Livin Large.” That same year Bethann closed her agency and briefly moved to Mexico. By 2007, the influx of Eastern European models and the rise of clone casting popularized by major fashion brands such as Prada and Jil Sander had led to a severe dip in the representation of models of color. That same year Bethann organized a town hall meeting to address the lack of diversity in the industry and call out casting directors who were boldly specifying "No Blacks. No ethnics" in their casting calls. In response to this, in 2008 the late Franca Sozzani enlisted Bethann to collaborate with her on the creation of Vogue Italia's seminal "All Black" issue. Two years later Bethann was named Editor-at-Large for Vogue Italia’s digital platform. However, despite the success of the groundbreaking "All Black" issue which became Vogue Italia's highest selling issue of all time and marked the first time in Condé Nast history that a publication reprinted an issue, models of color still remained notably absent from runways, magazine pages and covers, and advertising campaigns.  

Bethann Hardison @ The CFDA Awards, NYC, 2014

Bethann Hardison @ The CFDA Awards, NYC, 2014

Five years after the "All Black" issue, with no signs of change forthcoming, Bethann penned open letters to the councils of each of the major fashion cities (Paris, Milan, London and New York) calling out the lack of diversity on the runways and citing the major fashion houses that used one or no Black models stating that “no matter the intent, the result is racism." This marked the launch of The Diversity Coalition fronted by Bethann, Iman and Naomi Campbell. The trio of women came together once again to collectively campaign for the tangible improvement of racial diversity in the industry. Since then diversity has increased markedly with The Fashion Spot reporting 36.1 percent of the models appearing in the Spring/Summer 2019 shows were models of color and out of the 10 models with the most runway appearance for the season half were models of color34.5 percent of models starring in campaigns were models of color, and 37.7 percent of 2018’s fashion magazine covers featured people of color. In efforts to continue this improvement and ensure that progress is permanent, Bethann was hired as an advisor to the CFDA in 2018 and in 2019 she became an inaugural member of Gucci’s Changemakers Council. Both roles have been created to foster racial diversity and inclusion behind the scenes in the industry's workforce. 

Bethann's advocacy work is ongoing. In 2014 Bethann received the prestigious Council of Fashion Designers of America Eleanor Lambert Founder's Award in recognition of her tireless work championing diversity in fashion for over three decades. Her activism and contributions to the fashion industry have earned her several additional awards throughout her career, including:

  • The BRAGG Business Achievement Award (1996)

  •  The First Annual Vibe Style Lifetime Achievement Award (1999)

  • The Magic Johnson Foundation Distinguished Service Award (1999)

  • Lifetime Achievement Award from The Black Alumni of Pratt Institute (2003) 

  • Black Enterprise's Woman of Power Legacy Award (2011)

  • Jaguar’s Diversity Influence Award (2011)

  • Frederick Douglass Award (2013)

  • Iconic Trailblazer Award from Harlem’s Fashion Row (2018)

Bethann Hardison currently maintains management for Tyson Beckford and Kadeem Hardison.  She is developing a documentary titled “Invisible Beauty,” which takes a behind the scenes look at the fashion industry and diversity and is also a consulting producer on the upcoming scripted version of The Battle of Versailles by Academy Award-nominated director Ava Duvernay.